The Serpent in the Mountains
Imagine a road that twists and turns like a serpent through the heart of the Caucasus. This is the Georgian Military Road. For 210 kilometers, it snakes through lush valleys crisscrossed by gurgling rivers and mountains overgrown with wildflowers. It is a path that has been trodden by Roman armies, Persian invaders, and Silk Road caravans laden with spices.
As Mirian Takvarelia, a local driver featured in the BBC story, puts it: "You need to come here only once to fall in love with the Caucasus. It is the most beautiful place on Earth."
Mtskheta: Where History Breathes
Our journey begins in Mtskheta, the ancient capital and spiritual heart of Georgia. Located at the confluence of the Aragvi and Mtkvari rivers, this city was a bustling hub long before the road was paved.
High above the city stands the Jvari Monastery, a UNESCO World Heritage site perched on a cliff edge. Built in the 6th century, it is a masterpiece of early medieval architecture. Standing here, looking down at the merging rivers, you are standing on the same ground where Saint Nino erected a wooden cross in the 4th century, marking the rise of Christianity in Georgia.
Echoes of an Empire
As we drive further north, the history shifts from ancient kings to the Soviet era. The road is dotted with fading mosaics—colorful, crumbling ceramic panels depicting lions, mythical birds, and folk heroes. These are the ghosts of the 20th century, decorating deserted bus stops.
The most spectacular of these is located near the ski resort of Gudauri. Known as the Russia-Georgia Friendship Monument, this colossal concrete semi-circle stands against the dramatic backdrop of the Devil's Valley. While its political message is complex, the art is undeniable, offering a panoramic balcony over the abyss.
The Road to the Clouds
The drive itself is the destination. We pass the turquoise waters of the Zhinvali Reservoir and the fortress of Ananuri, which has stood guard over this route for centuries. We stop in Pasanauri, the legendary birthplace of Khinkali, to eat dumplings the proper way—tilting the head to catch the savory juice.
From the holy stones of Mtskheta to the snowy peaks of Kazbegi, the Georgian Military Road is more than a transit route; it is a timeline of Georgia itself.
Source & Copyright: This article is based on the original work by Soumya Gayatri for BBC Travel (7 November 2024).
